Upon arrival at Robert L. Bradshaw airport in St. Kitts I was met by my dutch couchsurfing host Lennart, who had come to pick me up on his scooter. He also drive me around the Southern Part of the Island, making the most of the two days I had there.
We went all the way to the Southernmost point, to the harbour where the boats to the second island, Nevis, went from. From there it was just a short drive to my favorite place on the island, the Reggae Bar at Turtle Beach. They had some good lunch, cold beers and a nice, quiet beach. It used to be famous for having a giant pig called Wilbur walking around, but unfortunately he had passed away s couple of years ago, but I believe he was there with us in spirit.
Second up was Shipwreck bar at South Friars Bay where there were lots of monkeys running around, famous from the BBC episode where it shows how they steal drinks from tourists and get absolutely smashed (watch it here).
Last up was “the Strip” which was a beach full of bars where there were lots of American students partying. Apparently the American universities pay no tax in St. Kitts making their programs more affordable. The last night on the island was spent in my hammock just five mins from the airport, where there was a celebration of the first day of Sugar Mas (the St.Kitts national carnival) so parades were going through the streets right next to my camp almost the whole night until I left for my Dominica flight early the next morning.
My couchsurfing host in Antigua was living right in the middle of the island, and standing on his veranda we could see the coast in almost all directions- that should give you an inpression of really how small the country Antigua & Barbuda really is. It is about the sams size as the island I am from, called Finnøy, and as there were as many as three huge cruise ships docked in the capital St.Johns I felt like one of the tourists when visiting the UNESCO site Nelson Dockyard and the rest of the English Harbour.
What I did was to escape the tourists was to do a trek through the forest up to Shirley Heights, which had a beautiful view of the island and then ride down the roads with my pennyboard. Locals stopped me on the way and asked if I would join them for a drink of rum which I accepted. It was then that I noticed that two of them had blue eyes even though they were black. When I asked them if they had European ancestors they just said “we are all English here” which I understood as a yes, but it still puzzels me the same way as the people living in Melanesia who also were black but had blond hair. I wish that I had asked to take a photo.
Last thing I did was to cruise along the coast to check out the beaches. Antigua boasts of having 365 beaches, one for each day, and they are all public which was great! A really quiet, yet easily accessible was the Pidgeon Beach. My favorite was the one in Galleon Bay though, which was large and completely empty and then also Deep Bay which had water as clear as a swimming pool.Had I had more time I would have explored more of the beaches around Jolly harbour. Especialy the beach in Rendevouz Bay which is harder getting to but is supposed to be the nicest beach of them all on the island of Antigua.
Forts and cannons on Galleon Beach
Deep Bay had water as clear as a pool
Galley Bay was my favorite beach and had absolutely no people at all
There didn’t seem to be much to do in Kingston so all we got to see was some parks, the Devon House, a crafts market and the Bob Marley Museum in Uptown. Leaving the museum there was a motorcyclist driving up to us, grabbing the phone of my friend and the driving off, so the rest of the day was spent at the police station writing reports.
In the night however, our so called Reggae Hostel got quite lively with new people checking in and an Israeli guy told me that he had heard of a local party at a place called WedyWedy that I decided to join him for. As the party didnt start until two a clock in the morning we headed to Husain Bolt’s new bar called tracksandrecords for a beer in a good athmosphere and when we came to the party afterwards it was absolutely crazy. People were doing “daggering” which maily consisted of lifting girls up by surprise, throwing them around and dry humping them. It seemed quite aggressive, vulgar and provocative to me at first but then I was explained that the girls considered themselves lucky and respected dancing that way.
In the morning of my flight I headed to the airport early together with a couple of Germans who were going the same way. I had earlier got a tip by a local who suggested asking a fisherman to take us on a 15minute boat ride from Port Royal to an island called Lime Cay, which was absolutely beautiful. We had the whole island to ourselves the hour we spent there and came back just in time for me to make my flight to Antigua the same day.
It is not often that I say that places are over rated, but Treasure Beach in Jamaica fits the category. I had read about it in a Lonely Planet guide and thought that the place seemed perfect with no husslers and a quiet beach, which it also was, but that was about it.
First of all it was super hard getting there. I tried first to take a route taxi (local “bus”) but as I left in the afternoon on a Sunday I ended up stranded in Santa Cruz, which was not a pleasant or safe place to walk around so I asked a taxi driver to drive me the last hour from there to Treasure Beach which cost 50 US dollars.
Being there I also walked around to ask if I could hang up my hammock in the hotel grounds, but everywhere people just said we have never had someone doing that so I ended up booking a 30 dollar hotel room. So I was already way over budget and stranded in a place where the beach was so-so and there was nothing to do, except relaxing and visiting the Pelican Bar which I did with some Germans travelers on the third day.
The fishermen in Treasure Beach asked for 35 dollars per person to go there, so we took a bus to Black River instead where we met a fisherman who would take us for 15USD. The place was super chill and we had a couple of beers while sitting relaxed with out feet into the water before we headed on to Kingston later that day.
Watch this on my vlog, episode 4 here.
My initial plan in Jamaica was to first spend a night in Montego Bay and then move on to Negril, but when I head from others on the plane that Montego Bay was just overfilled with tourists I decided to head straight to Negril instead.
There I got to camp at Roots Bamboo guesthouse which had super friendly staff and a good, laid back athmosphere. I walked up and down the Seven Mile Beach several times, which I actually found out was just four miles. Its a beautiful place, but it was a bit tiring that there were so many husslers/ beach boys who asked me every ten minutes if I wanted to buy ganja. Every time when I told them that I do not smoke I was asked to explain myself as they could absolutely not understand why I didnt. Everybody here smokes, every day, while working, driving or relaxing. All day. Even women while carrying their young children.
My birthday was coming up which called for a celebration. I had heard about Rick’s café which had live djs, music and entertainment. The athmosphere there was great and it had Negril’s best spot for sunset watching, but the best part was that it was on a cliff where you could jump from any height you wanted up to 11meters and watch the staff jump from 25 meters. Walking home from the bar I also met some locals who wanted to celebrate the birthday with me. They told me about this all inclusive bar called jungle where they would get us in with just painting our own stamps with a leaf that we had to pick from a resort garden and it worked. We just showed our self made stamp and could drink for free the whole night which felt like the perfect way of spending my 28th and my last night in Negril.