Port of Spain does not have the best reputation among capital cities. It has a high crime rate and has not much to see an do. Arriving with the 6am ferry I had a whole day to spend, so I walked around looking at the churched, did some shopping and ate some delicious Trinidad-Indian street food.
I also took an hour busride up to Maracas which has the reputation og being the most (or only) beautiful beach in all of Trinidad. The beach town is also famous for their “shark and bake” which is like a döner kebab, but with fried shart and then you pick the vegetables/sides you want including six sauces (adding all was actually really good!).
Being only four o’clock with my flight leaving closer to midnight, I decided to call Anders from Sweden, who I med on Pirate Beach Tobago and had said that he was working there. He picked me up twenty minutes later, showed me the park (which is the Worlds largest roundabout and the place where the annual Carnival takes off), showed me the old colonial style houses, the art center (which looked a bit like the Sydney Opera House) and invited me for a meal and some beers before dropping me off at the airport.
Tobago is simply a backpackers paradise. Everything is much cheaper than in the rest of the Caribbean, you can legally camp for free on all the beaches and it is one of the places in the World where I have most easily gotten to hitch rides with passing cars.
I met a Chilean hard core backpacker called Hilton who suggested that we should hitchhike around the island and then camp along the way. The first day we went to the city on the Caribbean side of the island called Castara, where we made camp on a beach called Englishmans Bay. It was in a bay covered by jungle on all sides, completely empty of people and I would say it was my favorite beach on the whole island. We also hiked to a waterfall, just a few minutes walk from Castara city, which was small, but nice.
Pidgeon Point was also lively with beach bars at night
Our second night we spent camping in the tribune of a football stadium in a city called Charlotteville. We were supposed to camp at a lookout point called Flagstaff, but as it was raining so much we found out that it was better just to seek shelter and then go there the next day. We also visited the beach furtherst to the North called Pirates Bay which Hilton said was his favorite- probably beacause it really gave you a feeling of being on a pirate beach st the end of the World.
The view from Flagstaff, Charlotteville
The camp at Englishmans Bay
We also stopped at the beaches on the Atlantic side of the Island around the cities of Speyside and Roxborough, but I must say that the Caribbean side was the most beautiful and it is a place that I will miss when moving on to South America next week.
My initial plan when coming to Tobago was to rent a scooter, drive around the island and camp at the beaches, but I didn’t get further than to bucco where I stayed five nights at Fish Tobago Guesthouse.
The place was really quiet, except for Sundays when people are coming from the whole island to go to a bar called Sunday School where you can get a buffet of local food for less than 20US, watch people play steel drum music which Trinidad and Tobago is really famous for and have a few drinks when the club turns into a night club with Jamaican dancehall music. didnt even have a place to stay on Sunday as I stayed in Sunday School until my boat to Trinidad left at 6.30am.
The famous pier at Pidgeon Point
Bucco is a little fishing village and a couple of the days I got to go fishing with the hostel owner, Brandon. One of the days we manage to catch over 30 bonito tunas and almost a barracuda, so I ended up spending almost no noney on food, cooking tuna for my every meal.
Bucco was also a great base to have the most busy and touristic place, Crowne Point close by and also a lot of beaches. There was Mt. Irvin beach which was good for surfing, Pidgeon Point which is the most famous beach and after an hour of walking from here I also got to a beach called “no mans land”. I had hoped it would be completely empty considering how hard it was to reach, but when I got there I saw three tourist boats and two jet skis with people who had arrived there on tours. The good thing about that though was that I got to hitch a ride with one of the scooters back to my home in Bucco.
So called “no mans land” between Crowne Point and Bucco
The famous steelband “the Bucconeers” playing at the “Sunday School” block party in Bucco