Kribi is on the South West coast of Cameron and is a popular stop for people travelog through the country. Not only does it have Cameroons best beaches, but it also boasts of having Africa’s Only waterfall that runs straight into the ocean. We stayed at Tara plage, right on the beach and could walk all the way to the waterfall in less than an hour, while if we would have stayed in town we would have to go by taxi or a boat tour. Tours would also include a visit to a pigmy (tiny people) village and to see some monkeys, but we saw some pygmy people on the way and had just been to a monkey sanctuary in Limbé, so we were fine with our walk. I also talked to a local who showed me how to climb and swim to the top of the almost ten meter high waterfall and jump down, which was one of the most exciting things I have done in my life! When I wanted to show some of the others from our group how to get to the top the next day, there had been way to much rainfall and was dangerous to swim there. Shani who joined me in the attempt also managed to catch a hookworm that has lived in her foot the days ever since and will most likely be removed once we get to a place with a proper hospital.
The road on the border between Nigeria and Cameroon were by far the worst roads we had encountered on our trip. Some places there was a meter of water, there were potholes everywhere and one place there were tens of trucks and cars waiting to pass stretches of muddy roads where people had been getting stuck. With our four wheel drive we managed to drive steadily through it and even pull out a minibus along the way. Right after the worst roads we got to this beautiful long bridge that the Chinese had just built in the middle of the Cameroonian rainforest.
When we finally got to Limbé we parked up at Miramar-probably the most fancy hotel we had camped at with a couple of pools, a massive trampoline, a volleyball field and a view out to the many oil righs in the ocean. Apparently it was a place popular for Western expats when they came on shore and for tourists who would come to trek Mt. Cameroon, the highest mountain of West Africa which also was visible from Limbé city. Some people from the group also went on a three days trek to the top of the mountain, but after having been driving as much as we had I was more in the mood to use the facilities on our hotel and have some ultimate relaxation before continuing to the more big and hectic cities ahead.
Watching Eurovision on the phone in a bar
After visiting a couple of beach towns in Ghana it was time to see one of the country’s natural beauties called the WLI Waterfalls. After a couple of days drive from Accra we had reached our destination which was laying directly on the border of Togo. Because it was on the borderland it was compulsory to go with a guide and we all paid about 10 euros each to get a local to accompany us the 5 hour hike to the upper waterfall.
The trail was steep and the temperature was high. We were all sweating and breaks to catch our breaths, but when we got to the top and saw how beautiful the falls were we agreed that it was all worth it. The falls were really high with a pool underneath it for a swim and a shower. Following the river we could also stand on the edge of the lower falls and look down. Lucas from our group wanted to see even more and decided to go further up the mountains. What he did not know was that the waterfall separated Ghana and Togo, so when he crossed it he was illegally in Togo and could have been arrested. Luckily there were no border guards there and he managed to get back to our group in Ghana right after the sunset.
Getting into Ghana was a delight after having spent over three months elsewhere in West Africa. The main language in West Africa is French. That is, with the exception of Nigeria and Ghana where they speak English. Ghana is also known as a West Africa for beginners as it has more stability, a better infrastructure and way more tourists. We could finally order pizzas, understand people and meet other tourists.
In Cape Coast there were a lot of young European volunteers stationed and others who were just there for the weekend to and hang out with the local beach boys. For our group it was a great place to meet up and tell each other stories from the last couple of weeks when the group had been split up. The Baobab café was great as they had the first proper coffee we had tasted in months and all their profits went to charity. For those of us interested in history we also could visit the Castle, which is one of many fortresses along the Ghanian coast where the British colonists kept thousands of slaves captured.
Cape Coast has a very relaxed and friendly vibe that is worth a visit, especially if you are passing by on a weekend.
Having to wait for Benin and Angola visas to be finished at the embassies in Accra, we had plenty of days to kill. Accra is not the most exciting city, so most of the group stayed 50 minutes away at Big Millie’s Backyard in Korobite while others headed back to Cape Coast. Taking so called tro-tros (buah taxis) from there to Accra was cheap and easy so some of the days we headed to the malls there which was like Paradise after three months with nearly no air-conditioning and western shops.
On Kokrobite Beach it was also possible to rent surf boards and even though the waves were not exactly World Class it was fun to play around on a board again.
Just like Cape Coast, Kokrobite was swarming with beach boys just jumping over western girls and women when they arrived, just like most beach destinations. Having a few days by the beach in Ghana has been nice to relax after some rougher months through savannahs and desserts, but now I am ready to head into the unknown francophone West- Africa again.